Heritage Gwalior - 15th Century - Jain Rock Shrines

Veer Singh was succeeded by Uddharan Dev, Veeram Dev, Ganapati Dev, Dungar Singh Dev, Keerti Singh, Kalyan Mall, Man Singh and Vikramaditya, who was the last ruler from Tomar Dynasty. Gwalior saw a very peaceful time during the period in which Tomars ruled the area. The most important monuments that have been found till now, from the pre Man Singh period, are the very striking Jain monuments on face rock faces of the Fort Hill. Although Tomars were Hindu kings, Jain shrines and monuments are the testimony to the secular nature of Gwalior. Although they were funded by the wealthy Jain merchants of that time and not commissioned by the King, it shows that people from any religion enjoyed equality and prosperity.

The Jain shrines, which are about 100 in number, including large and small, were surprisingly made in a relatively short period of 33 years, between 1441 and 1474. The shrines are mainly in two clusters, one on the south east face of the Fort rock, the other on the way to West gate called Urwahi. These shrines are made of large sized statues of Jain "Tirthankaras", accompanied with enclosures and other smaller statues of Jain Gods, prophets. In Jainism, a Tirthankara is a human being who helps in achieving liberation and enlightenment as an "Arihant" by destroying all of their soul constraining karmas, became a role-model and leader for those seeking spiritual guidance.

The beautiful large shrines and their deities are carved into the stone of the hill. One of the colossal figures is 57 ft (17 m) high, taller than any other in northern India. The rock cut sculptures although were made as Jain religious relics, adorn the faces of the Fort hill and are enjoyed by all.

Heritage Gwalior - 13th Century - The first Jauhar performed in India(anywhere)

As the peaceful times of Parihara(Pratihara) dynasty, which built beautiful temples in and around Gwalior, entered the period of repeated attacks from Turkish invaders, it set the stage for the very first incidence of “Jauhar” in India. “Jauhar” refers to  an extremely startling Rajput practice where Queens and/or female Royals will willingly give themselves up to funeral fire, alive, to burn themselves to death, to save their honor and avoid falling into the hands of enemy. The men would then leave for the battlefield, enraged by the deaths of their women, and fight until win or death.

Here is the woeful  story of why this very first Jauhar was performed.

In early 13th Century, 1231 to be precise, the slave Sultan Iltutmish came to Gwalior with his large army and attacked the Fort. At that time Gwalior was ruled by Parihar kind Malayvarman. Since it was not possible to enter the Fort easily, Iltutmish surrounded the Fort for 11 months. He then with the help of some defecting insider, cut the route to send the supplies inside the Fort. Malayverman and his men became increasingly worried and decided to confront Iltutmish’s army in a battle. Meanwhile Iltutmish send a “Peace Treaty” where he asked Malayverman to concede and give his daughter Karnika to Iltutmish. Malayverman felt extremely insulted and enraged and decided to go out and fight Iltutmish. The Queen and the princess Karnika decided to set themselves in a Jauhar before the King and his men go for the battle. They were joined by other Royal Women and their maids. A huge pyre was made in a large tank, now known as Jauhar Kund. All the women dressed themselves for their final act of love and honor, and immolated themselves till death. After the Jauhar, which was a first, Malayverman and his men went to attack Iltutmish’s army outside the Fort. The army from Gwalior was very small against the huge army from Delhi Sultanate, but the men fought with great valor and bravery. They had nothing more to lose. Finally, with the killing of Malayverman and all the royals, Gwalior army was defeated and the Fort came under the control of Iltutmish. That date was December 12th, 1232 AD. There was one survivor from the Parihar dynasty, Malayverman’s unsatisfied and power hungry cousin Narvarman. Iltutmish made him the Chief of a nearby area called Shivapuri, in return for his “services”.

    Jauhar Kund - the brooding site of the first Jauhar

Heritage Gwalior - 11th to 14th Century - Period of Unrest

The Parihara dynasty, who made the great temples in Gwalior and around, lasted for only a few generations, for about 100 years, after which there was a series of attacks on the Fort by Turkish invaders. First, Mahmud of Ghazni attacked in early 11th Century, but could not succeed. This was followed in 12th Century by Qutubuddin Aibak, the first Turkish Sultan of the Delhi Sultanate, but he too lost the Fort in early 13th Century. It was recaptured by Iltutmish after a couple of decades. When Taimurlang invaded Delhi and created anarchy in the region, Narasingh Rao, a Hindu chieftain captured the fort.

When the long ruling Tomar dynasty in Delhi was defeated by Ghoris in late 12th Century, they shifted to a place called Esah in Chambal region, and became local rulers. Later, Veer Singh Dev from Tomar dynasty showed resentment for the Turk rulers in Delhi but was defeated. Under some treaty he had to move to Delhi and serve in the court of Sultan Mohammed Shah. After Sultan Mohammed Shah’s death, his son, Alauddin Sikandershah Humayun Khan, for some political move made Veer Singh Dev the administrator of the Gwalior Fort. When Veer Singh reached Gwalior with the court order of his appointment, the current administrator refused to give the Fort to Veer Singh. Veer Singh hatched a plot to kill him after poisoning him with deceit, and eventually won the Fort after a small battle. Very soon he declared himself an independent ruler of Gwalior. This made the then Sultan of Delhi, Nasiruddin Mohammed Tughlak, wage a battle against, which Veer Singh Dev won, and thus became the first ruler of Tomar Dynasty in the year 1325. The rule of  Tomar Dynasty over Gwalior, for next 150 years, can be considered the Golden Period for Gwalior. Tomars were brave, savvy, diplomat, had well organized army to keep their land safe and sovereign. They also were lovers of art and culture  and patronized and contributed to all forms.

Heritage Gwalior - 11th Century - Kakanmath

An abhilekh from Sahastrabahu Temple reflects that Suhoniya in district Morena, known as Sihoniya today, 80kms from Gwalior, was the capital of Kachhwaha, or Kushwahas. The Kachhwaha kingdom was established in the 11th century between 1015 to 1035 A.D. The Kachhwaha king Kirtiraj got a "Shiv Temple erected at Sihoniya”. This temple is known as the "Kakan Math".

It is said that Kakanmath was built by king KirtiRaj to fulfill the wishes of his Queen Kakanwati. It is 115 ft. high , built in the Khajuraho style and stands really tall amidst far stretched mustard fields.

The temple which looks like it is about to fall, when viewed from a distance, gets more and more sturdy and amazing as you get closer.

It has some of most beautiful statues carved on its exterior walls, with dancing, joyful figures, along with various Hindu Gods and Goddesses.

The extraordinary temple and the stories around it live in folk lore even today and even though it stands quietly away from the lives of people, it still commands the imagination of the villagers who live close by and they are always willing to tell you a story or two about it, even dating as back as Pandavas of mythology.

The inside is surprisingly stark and void of anything except a simple Shiva lingam of normal proportions, quite opposite the architectural refinement it has outside and the grandeur of scale in the pillared pavilion - mandapa. This kind of reflects how from an outside world of various stimulations you would enter the inner world of peace, solitude and calm.

I felt a very strong feeling of spirituality when I was there, just sitting quietly, enjoying the silence in which the temple and its surroundings are wrapped, and experiencing the feel of that ancient temple, being there for such a long time and having  gathered energies of a place of worship by millions of souls over a million years. Time stand still at Kakanmath.

Heritage Gwalior - 11th Century - Sahastrabahu Temple

In the 10th century, with the control of the Gurjara-Pratihara dynasty of Gwalior declining, a regional dynasty called the Kachhapaghatas started wielding power. During their rule they built several monuments, which included two temples dedicated to Lord Vishnu, named Sahastrabahu(the one with hundred hands, a name for Lord Vishnu), now commonly known by the name 'Sas-Bahu Temple' (meaning: “mother-in-law and daughter-in-law”). An inscription on the larger of the two temples records its building date to 1093 AD.

These temples are situated adjacent to each other. The larger one is elaborately decorated with beautiful carvings and sculptures. A unique architectural feature of these pyramidal shaped temples built in red sandstone is that they have been raised several stories high solely with the help of beams and pillars, and with no arches having been used for the purpose. The main temple looks dauntingly sturdy.

The pillared hall (mandapa) is opened from three sides and the beams and openings lend to beautiful interplay of light and shadows throughout the day with passing sun.

These temples like others on the Fort also have no idol of the main deity, due to destruction inflicted in later centuries. In fact the faces of all the carvings on walls and entrances are also broken. Even though we cannot see the faces, the carvings still look amazing for the graceful form and details.

The roof of the main temple is simply jaw dropping, has exquisite carving of stylized lotus and floral designs and patterns around it.

The four tall pillars and the intricately carved circular roof around them reveal how lovingly it must have been designed.

The smaller temple is a stylistic replica of the larger temple, and stands towards the east side of the main temple. Both the temples are interestingly north facing. The smaller temple has a roof similar to early temple design, as seen in the temples of Bateshwara, whereas the larger temple seems to be more evolved in Nagara style of temples.

Heritage Gwalior - 9th Century - Tailanga Mandir, Fort

The very unique Tailanga Mandir, which is now colloquially known as “Teli ka Mandir” was built in 9th Century. At 100ft, it stands the tallest temple within the Fort, as well as one of the oldest. This was a Vishnu temple originally but the main idol was destroyed in early 13th century by Iltutmish who was a commander of Qutubuddin. Since then the temple has been void of its deity.

This temple has a very striking architecture, for it is a blend of South Indian and North Indian temple designs. The Shikhara(spire) of this temple, and its “Wagon Vaulted” roof is Dravidian or South Indian in style, and is rarely found in North India, whereas the decorative details are in the Nagara style – specific to North India. Interestigly, unlike most of the temples in India, this does not have a Mandapa(pillared hall) in front of it. Figures of river goddesses, amorous couples, coiled serpents, and a flying Garuda (Lord Vishnu’s vehicle) abound in the temple complex.

The original design had a large opening as the door which was later, at some point of time, made smaller by adding a wall like structure to the large door.

The entrance gateway was a later addition during British period, by Major Keith in 1881, possibly to restore an existing ancient gateway.

Heritage Gwalior - 8th Century - Mitawli

This is a beautiful monument made on top of a 100ft high hillock, perfectly circular in shape with a huge rotunda inside. It seems to be a place for meditation and worship for priests/monks for it has 84 small niches all around the periphery of the structure with a little Shiva Linga inside each of the niche. These niches reminded me of the meditation cells made in Buddhist caves at Ajanta, Elllora.

In the center is a simple Shiva temple and a big circular courtyard. Outside of this structure has a plain circular wall, unlike most of the Hindu temples it has no ornamental carvings. It’s the form of the structure which makes the impact. This monument was made around 8th-10th Century and is around 40 km from present day Gwalior.

Heritage Gwalior - 8th Century - Padawali

Just a very few kilometers from Bateshwar temples is another site called Padawali, which seems to be parts of a fortress  built around or over an even ancient temple structure, dated 8th-10th century. The site is still being excavated and more structures may be found. Within the little fort’s wall is a splendid gate or outer mandapa to a Vishnu temple that no longer exists. But the gate is enough to stupefy. The inside, especially the roof of this gate of the temple has very dense and fine carvings depicting episodes from Ramayana and Mahabharat, various incarnations of Vishnu, Samudra Manthan.

I was really amazed at the density of figures in each square feet of the walls or roof in this temple.

Lord Shiva dancing inthe cemetery in Preta (Ghost) form

Another temple cluster at Dodamath in the same place is also being excavated. The ravages of time and earthquakes have destroyed these forgotten temples.