Heritage Gwalior - Late 19th Century - Building of City Gwalior

The Main Circle in Town Center - Maharaj Bada. With a handsome statue of Jayaji Rao Scindia

Jayaji Rao Scindia who succeeded the short rule of Jankoji Rao Scindia, was only 8 years old when he was made the official king, in 1843. He ruled Gwalior for a relatively long period of  43 years, till 1886. During this period he built most of the modern day Gwalior, and those buildings are, not only present, but are being used in various ways even today. Jayaji Rao maintained friendly relationship with British and used the bargained peace to develop his city.

The first palace he made is Moti Mahal, a mansion with nine hundred rooms. It draws inspiration from the medieval buildings in Gwalior and has an oriental ambience with terraces flanked by square towers. The reflection of the palace looks beautiful on the artificial lake on the front. Later, Maharaja Madhavrao Scindia converted it into secretariat of Gwalior Riyasat. It was known as "Huzoor Secretariat". The palace features mosaic work of colored glass and gold leafing, and murals depicting Ragas and Raginis. The palace also has a rich collection of wall paintings. The palace is used as a number of State Administrative offices today.

Durbar Hall

Everyday Sarkari Office amidst Heritage Art

The Magnificent Great Room now used as Another Conference Hall

Amazingly beautiful Music Room, covered with wooden panels with very intricate miniature paintings all over, depicting life and times of Scindias in Gwalior 

Later he made a much more magnificent palace, with heavy European influence on architecture, the Jai Vilas Palace, that is functional even today. Part of this palace serve as residences of various Scindia family members and part of it is converted into a museum maintained by Scindia trust. The museum has a medley of furniture and objects used by the multiple generations of Scindias, quite a few gifts received from British and other European royalties, and an unapologetic display of tens of stuffed tigers as royal hunting trophies. 

Other than palaces, Jayaji Rao made multiple prominent buildings in various archetectural styles, to develop the town center, including comomorative Gates, administrative buildings, inns etc. He also made a number of temples around the town.

The Regal Theatre

The Gorkhi Gate

The Victoria Market

Now burnt down by an accidental Fire!

Krishna Temple at Gorkhi

Many of these beautiful heritage monuments and buildings are ridden with modern day thoughtless ugliness. Is it not possible to be mindful of putting hideous objects next to them and ruin their beauty. Is it not possible to clean and develop beautiful parks around some of such commemorative Gates for example, and may be even lease them out to cafes and restaurants, to earn some profit to maintain them. if such buildings are made part of people's everyday life, they will get much more value and love from common people.

Gate of the inn "Duffrin Sarai"

Heritage Gwalior - 1857 - First Mutiny For Independence

Jayaji Rao Scindia was quite young, 22, when the first mutiny for Indian Independence from British Raj took place. By this time the Scindias, with their anglicized last name, were completely submissive and even collaborators to the British. At the same time there was another young person, who was spearheading the fight for independence. She was the princess of Jhansi, the brave heart Rani Laxmi Bai. Jhansi, which is about 100km. away from Gwalior, was a Maratha kingdom, ruled by Raja Gangadhar Rao, to whom Laxmi Bai was married. After Raja's demise in 1853, the British forcibly annexed Jhansi into its territory under the pretext that their son was adopted and could not claim the throne. Laxmi Bai was given a stipend and was asked to leave the palace and the Fort of Jhansi. But the British did not consider the Rani as any kind of threat and did not pay much attention to Jhansi after that. Rani took advantage of this, and inspired by the Rebellion of 1957, decided to bring Jhansi out of the clutches of the British. By the time the British took notice of the rising dissent, Rani had assembled a strong army and was forging her own cannons to fight for Jhansi. When the British forces arrived in 1958 under Hugh Rose, and demanded surrender, Rani proclaimed Independence of Jhansi. 

On March 24th when Hugh Rose besieged Jhansi and started bombarding it, Rani asked Tatya Tope for help. He came with an army of 20000 but the British continued bombarding the city of Jhansi mercilessly and thus on April 2nd Rani decided to flee to stop the attack on Jhansi. She tied her son Damodar Rao on her back and fled on her legendary horse named Pawan. She joined Tatya's army and together they took over Kalpi. But the British immediately attacked Kalpi on May 22nd and the Indian forces were again defeated. The leaders then fled to Gwalior intending to capture the strategic Gwalior Fort. On June 16th General Rose's army captured Morar, an outskirt area of Gwalior, and then attacked the city. On June 17th in Kotah-ki-Serai near the Phool Bagh of Gwalior, a squadron of the 8th (King's Royal Irish) Hussars, under Captain Heneage, fought the large Indian force commanded by Rani Lakshmibai which was trying to leave the area. The 8th Hussars charged into the Indian force, killing many Indian soldiers, taking two guns and continuing the charge right through the Phool Bagh encampment. In this engagement, according to an eyewitness account, Rani Lakshmibai put on a sowar's uniform and attacked one of the hussars; she was unhorsed, fired at him with a pistol, and also wounded, probably by his sabre, followed by a fatal shot from his carbine. According to another tradition Rani Lakshmibai, the Queen of Jhansi, dressed as a cavalry leader, was badly wounded; not wishing the British to capture her body, she told a hermit to burn it. After her death a few local people cremated her body. The British captured the city of Gwalior after three days.

This spot still has a historic ashram right next to it. It is a common belief that the spiritual guru Gangadas of that ashram gave shelter to Rani in her last hours/days and eventually did her funeral. 

The ashram houses Rani’s last armor, sword etc which is kept in a safe locker in the ashram and can be seen if you are able to impress the ashram head.

Heritage Gwalior - 1810 - Scindias Come To Gwalior

After the end of the Mughal-Maratha conflict in 1707, for the next couple of decades, the victorious Maratha empire expanded northwards, taking over central of India. The very brave and accomplished Peshwa(Prime Minister) Baji Rao help create multiple kingdoms and fiefdoms under Maratha Empire, mainly the Shinde in Ujjain, Holkars in Indore, Gaekwads in Baroda, by wreaking havoc on the disintegrating Mughal Empire. Peshwa Baji Rao was an outstanding cavalry leader and is believed to have never lost any battle.

The father of Scindia Clan, Ranoji Rao Shinde was made the king of Ujjain, in the mid 18th Century. He was succeeded by his son Mahadji Rao Shinde, the ruler during the earlier sited times of Ganna Beghum. Mahadji ruled from Ujjain and during his time Scindias became an influential power in central India and an important confederate of the Maratha Empire. Mahadji was succeeded by Daulat Rao Scindia who ruled during the onset of 19th Century. This was the time the British had become extremely powerful and was gaining full control of the country.  After the defeat of the allied Maratha states by the British in the Third Anglo-Maratha War of 1818, Daulatrao Scindia was forced to accept local autonomy as a princely state within British India and to give up Ajmer to the British. In 1810 Daulta Rao pitched a camp near Gwalior, that place came to be known as Lashkar (meaning army). He later moved to this place with his adminstration, and Lashkar thus became the center of (then) new town Gwalior. 

After the death of Daulatrao in 1824, Maharani Baiza Bai ruled the region, saving it from the British power, till the adopted child Jankoji Rao took over the charge. Jankoji died in 1843, and his widow Tarabai Raje scindia successfully maintained the position and adopted a child from close lineage named Jayajirao.

The "Chhatri Maidan" in Gwalior has the chhatris (cenotaphs) built for Jankoji Rao Shinde, JayajiRao Scindia and some of their family members.

Constructed in 1843 for the newly departed Maharaja Janakoji Scindia, sculptures and carvings in this finely detailed Chhatri depict the lifestyle of king.There are little stone elephants each bejeweled and covered with unique silk canopy, plodding in a line around the platform to symbolize the power of maharaja, and the door is guarded by two solemn soldiers in full Maratha regalia. Numerous panels outside depict the life of Krishna while inside the chhatri are painted frescoes of princesses and court dancers, as well as life size marble effigies of maharaja and his three wives.

The larger chhatri, built in ? to commemorate Maharaja Jayaji Rao Scindia, is on similar pattern as that of the smaller chhatri built earlier. It is remarkable for the intricate outside paneling with interwoven flowers. The interior is a large hall traditionally used for musical recital. 

This chhatri also has a few other chhatris of some family members. (find details).

Unfortunately, these beautiful chhatris are literally going to dogs. Scindias have not given them to the Archeaological Department of India, neither are they maintaining it properly. The families of the caretakers use them for their daily activities. For example, they have put nails into the building and set up clothes line for their use.

Heritage Gwalior - 17th Century - Ganna Beghum, Noorabad

The forgotten tomb of Ganna Beghum is located in Noorabad, 35km from Gwalior, near an ancient and beautiful bridge with minarets over the river “Saank”, built at the time of Aurangzeb in 17th century. As per a survey of Noorabad conducted by General Cunningham in 1862 A.D., the tomb was constructed in memory of the widow of mischievous Wazir of Sarai, Gajhiuddin in 1775 A.D. Ganna Beghum was the daughter of Ali Kul Khan of the royal family of Iran. Emperor Mohammad Shah fell for beauty of Ganna Beghum.

Here is a beautiful lore, excerpted from “Gopachal Gatha”, an interesting book on Gwalior by Shri Jagdish Tomar Ji. This story may not add up but it’s an enticing lore nevertheless.

About 25km from Gwalior, on the Gwalior-Agra highway, there is a river flowing from centuries, it is called Sank. It has a very old bridge on it, it is called the Noorabad Pul (hindi for “bridge”), as it next to a townlet called Noorabad. There, in the sleepy Noorabad lies a quiet and obscure tomb – the tomb of a “Ganna Begum”. On that tomb there is a small epitaph in Farsi, “Aah, Gham-E-Ganna”.

Who was this Ganna Beghum? This may be a tough question for the historians. But ask some old man in Noorabad and he will recall the tragic lore of Ganna, still living in the hearts of people of Noorabad. Ganna, whose life was like a ballad of misfortune.

Ganna got her name because her voice had the sweetness of Sugarcane. Her father Abdul Kuli Khan was an influential land lord in the Awadh province in late 17th Century. Her mother Suraiyya had been an acclaimed danseuse and singer in her youth, though she left the public life when she got married to Abdul Khan. But Suraiyya trained her daughter in singing and dancing from a very early age and groomed her into a master of these skills. Ganna also grew up to be an exceptionally beautiful woman. It is said that her skin was so fair and delicate that when Ganna would chew Paan, one could see the pinkness on her throat.

Abdul Kuli Khan had a residence in Delhi also. When he passed away, Suraiyya and Ganna moved to Delhi. After the demise of Aurangzeb, Mughal Sultanate was in decline in Delhi and in other states of India. Delhi, at that time was in a complete state of political instability and disarray. As Ganna grew up she started catching attention of many rogue princes and noblemen. She started getting marriage proposals from many royal families too. But destiny had something else in store for her. Ganna fell in love with a Jat Rajput Javahar Singh of Bharatpur. It was a love born at first sight and grew so strong that Ganna decided to move to Bharatpur with Javahar Singh. But when he was bringing Ganna to Bharatpur, his father king Surajmal stopped them on their way near Peeli Pokhar, and refused to let Ganna become his daughter-in-law. This erupted in a small battle between the father and son in which Javahar Singh got injured and lost a leg for life. Ganna had to return to her mother hiding for her life.

At that time, Shihabuddin, son of Gaziuddin, the Nizam of Hyedrabad, was in Delhi and held the post of Mir-Baqshi in the Sultanate. He was a very sly and devious person. He got Safdarjung, a minister, who introduced him to Sultan Ahmed Shah(son of Muhammad Shah Rangeela), and helped him get the post, imprisoned by some scheme, and convinced the Sultan to make himself a Minister instead. This Waziruddaula Shihabuddin also had eyes for Ganna and he forcibly brought her to his Harem.

Ganna deplored being with Shihabuddin. She still loved prince Javahar Singh and could not yet forget him. During this time another mishap came to Ganna. There was a Mughlani Beghum in Punjab. After the death of her husband she took up his post and became the lord of Punjab. While being in control of her fief she indulged in extracting wealth illicitly and led her life without any social and moral restraints. She also had a daughter. She had engaged her daughter to Shihabuddin in agreement with Shihabuddin’s father Gajiuddin, when they were young children. But after his father’s death Shihabuddin refused to marry the girl stating that he did not want to marry the daughter of a women of such ill reputation. Not only this, he even tried to wring some wealth out of Mughlani Beghum’s enormous accumulation, in which he succeeded to some extent. In 1761 Ahmed Shah Abdali attacked on Delhi and perpetrated immense bloodshed and looted diamonds and gold silver worth crores and crores. But, influenced by Mughlani Beghum, he let Shihabuddin be free and made him the Lord of the looted and destroyed Delhi. This waiver though came with the condition that he will marry the daughter of Mughlani Beghum, and make Ganna her slave. Shihabuddin was so scared of Abdali’s might at that time that though reluctant he agreed to the condition and thus Ganna became his wife’s personal slave.

Leading this menial life Ganna’s heart longed for Javahar Singh. One day she overheard that Shihabuddin planned to kill Javahar Singh. This was a very painful news for her but a companion named Umda, helped Ganna plan a runaway to meet Javahar. Thus Gannna could finally meet Javahar and save his life as well.

Javahar also was very happy finding Ganna again and promised that he would marry Ganna in very near future. But in few days Ganna found that he has already married his elder brother Nahar SIngh’s widow and has wringed that poor widow off her wealth as well. This broke Ganna’s heart and she became very depressed.

Ganna now faced the question, what to do, where to go. At this time Umda helped her again and somehow overtime got her enrolled in Mahadji Scindia’s army as a Sikh young man. Mahadji Scindia was the ruler of Gwalior at that time. Knowing her capabilities Mahadji made her his personal letter writer.

But Ganna had not given her true introduction to Mahadji. She dressed herself like a young Sikh, Guni Singh, and impersonated a man when with Mahadji. As she knew Farsi, Arabi and Hindi languages she used to take dictation of Mahadji’s important political letters. One day when “Guni Singh” and Mahadji were crossing a river, Mahadji saw that Ganna was in the river and drowning. But with Mahadji’s alertness and alacrity she was saved. During this, when Guni Singh was unconscious, it was revealed that he was actually a woman and not a man. But Mahadji did not reveal this to anyone and let it stay a secret.

One time during a visit to Pune, Ganna saved Mahadji from a plot to kill him, and even got the assassinator killed. Mahadji by this time was very impressed with Ganna’s intelligence. Gradually the veil of secrecy disappeared from between them. She now became Ganna for Mahadji but continued to appear as Guni Singh for rest of the world.

Mahadji was also a poet. He found that Ganna too was an accomplished poet and also a fine singer. She gave her voice to many poetry written by Mahadji. She had a jewel studded Tamboora. When she would play it and sing some Ghazal or some poetry written by Mahadji, she would spread magic all over. Mahadji would get enchanted as well. Thus, for one more time, Ganna’s life saw beautiful days. But this happiness and peace was short lived.

In 1774 Shihabuddin came to Noorabad. In those days some Muslim Faqeers were travelling all over the country, trying to unite the community, so that Hindu kings may not become too powerful and that they may not take over the central power. Shihabuddin was involved with such Faqeers and would even sponsor their activities. One such meeting was to happen in Noorabad, and Ganna decided to go to the meeting in disguise to find if there was any plotting planned against Mahadji, the ruler of Gwalior. She went to the meeting hiding in a Burqa and started to return at the end of the meeting. But she could not escape the sharp eyes of Shihabuddin who was also present there. He sent his men to capture her, which they did and found a hidden Kripan too with her.

Ganna was brought to Shihabuddin’s camp who became very delighted to see her and declared to spend the night with her. He was completely drunk. When he went out of the camp for something,, Ganna asked for water and quietly and quickly took a little packet of poison out of her clothes. She mixed this with water and quickly drank it. By the time Shihabuddin came back she lost her conscious to never have it back again. Thus she ended her life.

When Mahadji came to know about this, he was filled with enormous grief. He made a tomb of marble for her to express his love and respect for her and marked the words that he had earlier wished to put on his tomb – “Aah, Gham-E-Ganna”.

Heritage Gwalior - 17th Century - Data Bandi Chhor

Even though many documents depict Jehangir as somewhat secular towards Hindus, he never accommodated certain other minority religions like Sikhism and Jainism. One of the Sikh Gurus, Guru Arjan Dev became a target of Jehangir’s wrath because Arjan Dev blessed one of Jehangir’s rebellion prince Khusro. Jehangir ordered to kill Guru Arjan Dev but after an intervention by some influential Hindus, he replaced the killing order with some hefty  financial fine. Arjan Dev refused to pay the fine, as a result of which Jehangir imprisoned him and subjected him to all sorts of tortures. He finally died in 1606 as a prisoner. Those Hindu well wishers who paid for his fine etc were beheaded by Jehangir in as far as Lahore. Arjan Dev’s son Guru Hargobind Singh became the Sixth Guru of Sikh religion. Jehangir captured him too and imprisoned him in Gwalior Fort as he considered him his enemy. It is believed that one night Jehangir had a dream that he should immediately free the Guru. When the Guru was asked to leave, he refused to leave the prison and asked to free all the Hindu Rajas imprisoned with him. This created a situation for Jehangir as he considered his dream to be a spiritual Order and felt compelled to free Guru Har Gobind Singh Ji. It then got decided that Jehangir would free as many Hindu Rajas as can hold Guru’s Angarkha(a robe) when he is freed. Guru Har Gobind Singh Ji got an Angarkha made with 52 panels. Each of the 52 Hindu Rajas imprisoned with him held one of these panels and thus the Guru managed to get all of them freed. From then on Guru Gobind Singh Ji is also called Data Bandi Chhor. In later years Sikhs got a beautiful Gurudwara constructed of white marble in commemoration of Guru Har Gobind Singh Ji. This beautiful white monument can be seen from almost everywhere in Gwalior, where ever that side of the Fort is visible.

Heritage Gwalior - 17th Century - Jehangir, then Aurangzeb

The two main structures in this area adjacent to Man Mandir Palace, were built by Shahjahan and Jehangir. One of them was used as a prison and the other as a resthouse, rather like hunting lodges where the Mughal emperors would stay during their visits to Gwalior on hunting expeditions. These buildings contain  corridors with round stone troughs where horses and camels were tethered to be fed. The palaces have witnessed many atrocities committed by Mughal emperors.

Emperor Jehangir imprisoned many of his nemesis as well as family members he could not trust, including his father Shah Jahan, two of his brothers Murad and Dara Shikoh, and his own son, nephew Suleiman Shikoh amongst many others. Many pf these prisoners were also killed in the Gwalior Fort plalaces turned to prisons and torture houses.